Tag: Route 66 State Park

  • Ghost Town


    Once home to more than two thousand people, Times Beach, Missouri, is now part of Route 66 State Park, its former streets winding through grass, wetlands, and trees.

    Grass grows high along the path,
    seed heads bending in the July heat.
    Cottonwoods lift their silver leaves
    and turn them over in the wind.

    Somewhere beyond the trees,
    the Meramec moves brown and slow.
    Cicadas start and stop.
    A turkey disappears into the sumac,
    leaving one branch shaking behind her.

    I walk where the path bends gently,
    following its long, deliberate curve
    through Queen Anne's lace and clover.

    For years, I've assumed the curve was shaped by the land.

    I think the trees have drawn it there,
    that roots and rain have persuaded the path
    to turn a little to the left.

    But the curve was here before the trees.

    This was a street.

    The slightly hidden marsh beside me
    had an address.
    There were mailboxes here,
    porch steps, garden hoses,
    bicycles dropped in yards at dinner time.

    A woman shakes a white sheet in the sun.
    A screen door strikes its frame.
    Someone calls a child home
    before dusk makes the river invisible.

    I hear no names being called.

    Still, I stand in the middle of the old road
    while cicadas stitch their noise through the trees,
    and for a moment the grass seems crowded.

    They sprayed the roads with oil
    to keep the dust from rising.

    The streets were unpaved then.
    Cars sent the dry earth climbing
    into open windows and onto porches,
    over laundry, into kitchens,
    into the mouths of children playing outside.

    So they paid a man to settle it.

    He came with a truck
    and spread oil over the roads,
    darkening the dust,
    pressing it back into the earth.

    Such a small sentence:

    to keep the dust down.

    To keep it from settling on windowsills,
    on supper plates,
    on the faded blue jeans drying in the sun.

    The road kept what it was given,
    accustomed to service.

    Eleven summers pass.
    Children ride bicycles over it.
    Rain darkens it.
    The sun warms it.
    Women open their windows in April.

    Then the river rises.

    It enters the houses without knocking,
    climbs the stairs,
    lifts chairs from kitchen floors,
    pulls photographs from drawers.

    And when the water folds back
    into its comfortable rhythm,
    it leaves the secret in the mud.

    I walk here now
    with sunlight brushing across my shoulders.

    No houses.
    No mailboxes.
    No white sheets rising in the wind.

    Only the wetland,
    the mound,
    the old roads curving through the trees.

    They burned the poisoned earth eventually,
    two hundred and sixty-five thousand tons of it,
    and buried what remained beneath the grass.

    I've walked the hill where fragments of a town
    turn slowly in the earth—

    a blue cup without its handle,
    one white button,
    the rusted hinge of a closet door,
    a marble lost beneath a child's bed,
    the broken mouth of a jar
    that once held peaches.

    Things someone touched every day
    without knowing there would come a day
    when no one touched them again.

    Now coneflowers open in the sun.
    Frogs call from the water.
    A red-winged blackbird bends a reed
    almost to the ground.

    I have walked here for three years
    without knowing what was under my feet.

    The streets, trails.
    The mound, a hill.

    I watched deer step out at dusk
    where someone's back door used to be.

    Today I stop beside the tall grass.

    The wind passes over it
    and every green blade leans
    in the same direction.

    Then rises.

    Then leans again.

    As if the earth is trying
    to remember a name.

    —Iris Lennox


    If you'd like to know more about the town beneath these trails, I wrote about the strange history of Times Beach and its second life as Route 66 State Park here.

  • Route 66


    A bench possesses very few options.

    It cannot follow the river
    when the Meramec rises beyond its banks.

    It cannot seek shade in July
    or shelter in January.

    It cannot complain about mosquitoes,
    cottonwood fluff,
    fallen branches,
    or the weight of snow.

    Someone chose its view:
    One sliver of sky.
    The trees.
    A long curve of water
    moving northeast toward someplace else.

    When I first photograph it
    in Route 66 State Park,
    I do not yet know we will spend
    a year together.

    I am only walking a trail.

    The bench is only a bench.

    The river is moving quickly that day,
    green with spring runoff.

    Leaves unfold overhead.

    Somewhere beyond the trees,
    a train sounds its horn.

    I take a photograph and continue on.

    Then I return.

    A few days later.
    A few weeks later.

    Again.

    Again.

    The river lowers.
    The air grows thick enough to wear.
    Vines climb fallen tree trunks.
    Grass thickens.

    The air hums with insects
    so determined in their purpose
    they seem incapable of doubt.

    Autumn arrives carrying its familiar tools.

    Gold.
    Copper.
    Rust.

    Leaves gather around the legs
    and drift across the seat.
    The birds change shifts in the air
    and the shadows lengthen below.

    Then winter.

    The kind that introduces itself quietly at first.
    A single hard frost.
    Bare branches.
    A thin skin of ice.

    Then snow.

    Then wind.

    Then the sort of cold
    that makes a bright blue scarf question
    perfectly reasonable decisions.

    I walk a mile through a wind chill
    of thirteen below zero
    to take another photograph.

    The bench, meanwhile,
    has traveled nowhere at all.

    By then,
    a question has begun following me
    up and down the trail.

    At what point does a bench
    become an acquaintance?


    Not a friend.
    That would be absurd.

    The bench knows nothing about me.
    It cannot recognize my footsteps.
    It has never once asked
    how I am doing.

    Yet I find myself looking for it
    before I look for the river.

    I notice when a branch falls nearby.
    I wonder how it fared
    when tornado sirens blared.
    I am relieved to find it waiting
    where I left it.

    The year continues assembling itself.

    Rain after rain.

    Season after season.

    Photograph after photograph.

    One afternoon I stand beside it
    and look across the water.

    A hawk flies overhead,
    followed by a kettle of vultures,
    circling.

    "Something is about to be eaten,"
    I say out loud to no one,
    and I'm a little bit surprised
    there is no answer.

    The trees are busy becoming
    whatever comes after this.

    For a moment,
    neither of us is in a hurry.

    Above the river,
    a branch sways gently in the wind.

    And light moves across the bench
    like a hand.

    —Iris Lennox